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Usun Apau Exploration, Tallest waterfall in Sarawak Julan Waterfall, Post 01 of 03 乌舜阿包探险记,砂劳越最高瀑布之祖兰瀑布(上)

The Road to Julan River 往祖兰河的道路

We are going to hunt for the highest waterfall in Sarawak, the Julan waterfall. Day one, 274 km, 7 hours, from Miri to Mr Lipau's farmhouse near the Julan bridge.   

我们这次的目标是寻找全砂劳越最高的瀑布,祖兰瀑布。第一天,两百七十四公里路,七小时,从美里开车到居住在祖兰桥附件里保先生的村屋里一晚。

Depart from Miri, our transportation are consist of three 4WD from the Marudi town.
马鲁帝市镇来了三辆四驱车载我们去目的地。
Passby a town called Lapok aka cowboy town as its full of dust. Logging road, and timber camp nearby. Our transporter advice us if we were to drink at the coffee shop, try to get tin drinks, as they don't have fresh water supply here, only depends on rain. 

旅途中,我们经过了一个小镇叫拉波。这里都是灰尘,我们的司机告诉我们说如果在咖啡店喝水,尽量喝罐装水,因为这里没有水源,只能考雨水。

Stop by at the Baram Dam blockage to pickup our guides and porters. This blockage is an important place for the village people to communicate with other village people for the stop Baram dam movement. I'm glad that the campaign manage to stop the construction of the dam for now. 

巴南的水坝路障营有两个,这是其中一个。我们在这里歇会,也随便载我们的导游和搬运工。这个水坝路障营是一个让村民们沟通的地方,让他们反映出他们的反对建立水坝声音的地方。我感到很欣慰他们目前是成功了,希望胜利会永远站在他们这里。
Say NO to Baram dam!!! 不要巴南水坝!!!
Our porters will be sitting at the back of the truck, but pity them have to endure the dust along the way to the Julan river. 

我们的挑夫坐在车斗上面,可怜的他们等下就会变成灰尘人了。我的妈啊~~
Into the logging road, its a wild ride.
开始骑马咯
Stop by a viewing point for a break and photo. Follow my Borneo Explorer facebook page for more update.
停下来歇息。请记得拜访我的婆罗洲探险者来获取更多的最新资料。
Lunch time, and this is the last eating place along the Julan river.
午餐时间,这里是最后的一间饭馆,过了这就没饭吃啦。
The owner of the Sky View Cafe also raise wild boar. 
店主养的三只可爱的小野猪
Who cage the cat?!!! They should be free...
这么把猫咪关在笼子里,猫咪应该要自由自在的到处游走才对。
My lunch at about 3pm, its a fried rice. It looks good, but the actual taste...😓
快下午三点,这是我的午餐。照片是很好看,很美味,但是那个炒饭就。。。
A lot of logging truck around here, the logging company are killing our forest. After the late chef minister Adenan pass away, the local told us that the illegal logging activities starts again, and so as the rest of the logging companies.
这里有太多伐木公司开采木桶。村民告诉我们说自从前首席部长阿德南往生后,这里的非法伐木变更猖狂了。政府啊政府,我们砂劳越的森林完蛋了。。。
This is Mr Lipau's farm house, a 5 door longhouse. 
这是里保先生的村屋,五门的长屋。
Unload all our luggage, and get ready for our hike tomorrow.
把我们的背包整理好,明天出发。
Simple village life, breathtaking scenery. 
简单的乡村生活。
There is a stream at the back of the longhouse, that is where we clean ourselves up 
这是长屋后的小溪,我们如往常一般在河里游泳,洗澡。
That night we feast, and tomorrow we are going for our hunt on the highest waterfall in Sarawak.
晚餐吃饱饱,明天开始探索最高瀑布。




READ MY ADVENTURE HERE
我的冒险记录(上,中,下)

WATCH MY VIDEO HERE
我的冒险影片

Beautiful Gunung Serapi Summit View | 婆罗洲探险者涉拉比山,山顶风景太美丽

Mount Serapi, situated at the Kubah National Park, multiple wooden shelters are located along the trail to the summit, oh and don't worry, there is only one trail to summit you will not get lost. The trail passes through dipterocarp forest and links the various trails of the park. One of the trail that I like is the Rayu Trail which link to the Matang Wildlife Center, and it takes 3 - 4 hours one way.

涉拉比山, 位于库巴国家公园。到涉拉比山山顶的路上都有数个凉亭,供给登山者们休息。这个国家公园其中一段山路可以从库巴国家公园出发直到马当野生动物中心(单程三至四个小时)。

6 persons at one time. This Viewing Tower was built in 1997 and made of Belian wood (aka Borneo ironwood). According to the notice board it can only accommodate 6 persons at one time. I lost count on how many times I've been there, but this is the first time to take a picture from a drone. 

这座遥望台是建于一九九七年,用坤甸铁樟木 (又名坤甸木)建的。为了安全,一次只可以让六个人登上去。我自己都忘了这是我第几次登上去,但是这是我第一次用无人机拍照。角度还可以吧?!😊
This is the highest tower, which can be view from various places in Kuching. 
这座电讯塔是建于最高点,从古晋多个地方都可以看见。

Borneo Explorer to Spak Clearwater River Adventure 市杷河游泳记

I visited the Spak River, which is situated at about 15km away from the Betong Petronas Gas Station. Its has a road sign "Spak Clearwater River Adventure". I came here after finished hike the Bukit Sadok

木中休息油站那里还有个地方叫市杷河,离木中休息站往内陆大概十五公里。我和队友们刚登完萨多山,路此地,就进去拜访。果然是个个不错的地方, 溪水很清晰, 水也是很凉。
This is the road which lead to the river bank of the Spak river
接到河口的路
The formation of this river is water flow from Layar river (Batang Layar), and the Spak river (Sugain Sepak)
这地方有两条溪流形成,既 拉亚河及市杷河。
 This is a good place for camping, or bring your family here over the weekend for picnic. And swim in this crystal clear water.
The water is very clear, my friends and I cook instant noodles to eat, and then we also swim here. 
这里的水很清晰,我们在这里煮快熟面吃,吃完后还在这里游泳。两个字“爽快”!!!

Bukit Sadok Summit Hammock Camping at Betong, Sarawak, Borneo 萨多山露营记,木中,砂劳越

My friends and I had join an expedition which organised by the Kelab Aktiviti Lasak Kenyalang, they wanted to get into the Malaysia Book of Record for the most participant in a camping using hammock. In the end which they did, as there are about 500 plus of hammock on the summit.

我和战友们参与了本地的一个户外团体“犀鸟户外探险运动俱乐部”,他们要进入马来西亚大全记录,最多人在山峰用吊床露营的记录。当然最后,他们成功的申请到记录,总共有五百多个吊床在山顶。
We start our journey on a Friday night at about 8pm, and reach Betong town at about 12 midnight, then another hour drive to Sk St John, Jalan Ulu Layar, at Nanga Tiga. After our registration we slept at about 3am, woke up at 5am the next day. After breakfast, we start our descent at about 9.30am.

我们在星期五晚上八点从古晋出发,大概半夜十二点到木中,然后开了大约一小时的车到SK圣约翰,惹乌鲁拉亚,南迦帕尔蒂加。这里是报到地点,我们报到后,大概凌晨三点睡觉,五点起身。隔天早餐后,我们到了萨多山脚,九点半开始登山。
We were now at the bottom of the actual trail to the summit, all my friends wear their orange "Book of Record" t-shirt, as for me, I don't like to get sunburn so I will stick with my long sleeve hiking shirt. 

这是山脚下,我的战友们都穿上举办当局给的橙色衣服。我怕晒黑,所以还是穿这自己的长袖衣。
The jungle track brings us mainly through pepper gardens, pineapple gardens, and other type of crops. The trail ascends to the mountain are quite sharply, there is one part of the mountain where they lay a foundation of concert on the trail which makes it danger to navigate on a raining day. Which I personally think they should build it in a staircase shape, instead just lay it flat. 

丛林之路主要通过胡椒种植园,凤梨园等农作物。 爬上山的小路相当斜,山上有一部分,村民们在走道上铺了石灰路,地面都是平的,而这样在下雨时很容易滑倒,非常危险。 我个人认为他们应该建一个楼梯的形状,而不是平平的一面而已。很危险啊!
We sometime will asked ourselves the age old question which is asked by all people climbing mountains: “so why exactly  am I doing this?” I just enjoy embarrassing nature.  

有时登山,我们会问自己“我到底这么幸苦折磨自己为什么?” 哈哈,但是这些都是随口说而已,我就是喜欢拥抱大自然。
Saw this man in his 60's with one leg, slowly hiking up the 7km summit. Now do you still dare to say you can't reach the summit?! He's slow, but he manages to join us at the summit, which I have no idea how he did it. He told us that he climbed mount Santubong a few times already. In the end he did reach the summit, as I saw him with my own eyes, a lot of people took picture with him, and even interview him.

这位老将今年六十多岁了,他只有一只脚,但是他的手臂很大!看着他慢慢用拐杖,单脚登山,你还有什么理由说你不行?

他告诉我们,他登了几次的山都望没问题。我告诉你,他最后真的到了这萨多山顶。很多人都与他拍照,访问他。厉害!!!
I know that its going to be a long climb, so we just go by maintain a speed, not too fast, not too slow. I can see a vast field of pepper plantation at the slop, along the way I didn't see any river. Where do they get all the water for all these plants? 

我知道这是一个漫长的攀登,所以保持速度,不太快,不太慢。 我在坡边看到广阔的胡椒种植园,奇怪的是沿途没有看到任何的河流。那么他们在哪里取得水来给这些植物?
There are many turns along the way, good thing that the organiser had marked clearly where to go next. If not we can easily go to the wrong trail, as I heard that Charles Brook took three days to get to the top while it took us about 3 hours. 😆😋

沿途有许多转弯抹角,好在主办单位有明确地标明了下一站的去向。 如果没有,很容易去到错误的路线,我听说查尔斯·布鲁克花了三天时间找路才到了顶端,而我们花了约3个小时
In this expedition, there are about 500+ who manage to reach the summit. Most of them are new to hiking, as I can see some the hiking bag are still very new, one of them even still have the price tag on. 

And some are the expert, like this friend here, which he use to walk inside the jungle, carrying a basket of heavy stuff is like nothing for him. 

当天有超过500人到达这个山峰。 他们大多是新手,因为我看到登山包还是很新,甚至其中一位价格标签还没拔掉,嘻嘻嘻。

但有些也是专家,就像这个朋友,他告诉我他已经习惯走在丛林里,携带一篮子的重担子对他来说小意思。
I finally reach the main summit. Here we have one shelter, and the other was a small memorial hut built nearby with a copy of the Timpang Brang cannon placed in it and with several signboards giving the gist of what happened on the mountain, but is in Iban language. 

我终于到达山顶。这里有一个凉亭,附近有一个小型纪念小屋,附有一个放在其中的(Timpang Brang)跛脚海狸大炮,别紧张这是副本来的,真的放在另外的地方。同时有个牌子用依班文记录了山上发生的事情。
There was a stone slab there with a quot from the bible, according to the local, this was placed there by an Iban priest who was trying to insult the Ibans who go to the top to perform non christian ceremonies. 

那里有一块石头,刻有一则圣经文,据当地人说,这是一个伊本的牧师放在那里,试图侮辱那些去山顶进行非基督教仪式的伊班人。
This is the replica of Rentap's one armed cannon standing on top of the mountain. And a plate with a story about Rentap that goes like this...

The Rentap's town at bukit Sadoh. wait, it means like his house or fort made with belian wood as thick as 2 ft. Basically, after he was defeated by the white Rajah of Sarawak James Brook in 1854 in Sungai Lang, Ulu Skrang. 

Actually James Brook never came to the mountain himself, his forces were led by his nephew Charles Brook, Rentap made a new place for him and his people to live and became king of that area. 

And then the rajah has tried to attack him a few more times and only on the 3rd try he managed to get into that kuta with the use of a 12 pound cannon, (then some story about how they use magic and so on to make the defense weak etc) when rajah managed to get in, he found that Rentap has ran away, and was never captured by the Brooke forces, and finally on the 28 Oct 1861 the rajah burn down the Kuta.

在山顶上有一台仁达的大炮复制品。 和一板子刻有关于仁达故事,故事是像这样开始的。。。

仁达市镇在萨多山上。呃。。。 等等,牌子里写道他的堡垒用比利木头制成,而厚度两英尺,基本在一八五四年在沙捞越,萨郎,乌鲁丝客朗地带,被詹姆斯·布鲁克,白色拉惹赫攻打。 

实际上,詹姆斯·布鲁克本人没有来到山上,而是由他的侄子查尔斯·布鲁克领导他的部队来攻打。仁达被攻打后开始逃亡,然后在萨多山上为他和他的人民开辟了一个新的地方居住,成为了该地区的国王。

然后,查尔斯·布鲁克试图再攻击仁达几次,只有在第三次的尝试才成功,查尔斯·布鲁克使用一个十二磅的大炮攻进库塔(然后一些关于他们如何使用魔法等等的故事,使仁达防御力弱等),当查尔斯·布鲁克入侵到仁达住所时,他发现仁达又已经逃跑了,因此仁达从未被布鲁克部队俘获,最后在一八六一年十月廿八日,查尔斯·布鲁克烧毁了库塔。
At sunset I could even see the sunlight penetrate over the clouds surface and shine on the mountain range far in the distance, the view was truly amazing.

在夕阳的时候,我看到阳光穿过云层表面,在山脉上发光,这个景色真是太棒了。
As an experience camper, we manage to setup our hammock very quickly. And we still have time to build a dinning table, chairs, a place to hang our backpacks and a lamppost. After that we have nothing to do, but to look at the others struggling to setup tent and hammock around us. 

There was a heavy downpour at about 7pm, and ends at about 4am the next day. We are lucky that our heavy duty hammock manage to kept us dry, but for most of the others, they have to sleep in a wet and cold condition.  

作为一位有经验的露营者,我们很快就设置好了吊床。 我们还有时间搭建餐桌,椅子,一个可以让我们挂背包的地方,和灯柱。 之后,我们无所事事,只好看其他人在努力的设置帐篷和吊床。

下午七点左右下起了大雨,第二天在凌晨四点左右才结束。 我们很幸运,我们的吊床让我们保持干爽,但对于其他人来说,他们必须在潮湿和寒冷的条件下睡觉。

What happen when 500 plus of people staying on top of a limited space with just 4 toilet available?
A long queue of people waiting to go in the toilet, and the aroma from the toilet diffuse the whole area. 😓 

当有500多个人住在有限的空间,只有四间厕所会有什么景象?
那就是。。。等待上厕所的人,排长龙,厕所的香气弥漫着整个地区。*我的天啊~*

===============================================================
HOW TO GET THERE? 
The only way is by Car. From Kuching to Petronas Betong to Sk St John, Jalan Ulu Layar, Nanga Tiga, 267km, for about 4 hours

如何到达?
唯一的方法就是用汽车
从古晋到木中,两百六十七公里,四小时车程



===============================================================
INFORMATION OF BUKIT SADOK
Bukit Sadok is a historical place where the Iban warrior Rentap builded build fortifications to protect themselves from the attacks of Charles Brooke. The height of the mountain is 872 meters above sea level. At the peak of Bukit Sadok is a replica the one armed cannon name the Bachelor Lame Beaver (Timpang Brang Meriam). The cannon was used by Rentap to resist the invaders which is the Brooke army that led by Charles Brooke. The original cannon was placed in Betong District Office building in Bukit Bangun.

I hike for about 3 hours from Base to Summit.
Total hiking distance is 7 km.
Highest elevation is 872 meter above sea level

萨多山的资料
萨多山不是什么圣山,但是它具有浓厚的历史,历史悠久的地方。伊班战士仁达把这座山建立成防御的基地,以保护自己免受查尔斯·布鲁克的袭击。 山的高度是海拔八百七十二米。 在萨多的顶峰有一个火炮复制品,这座火炮的名字是跛脚海狸(Timpang Brang Meriam)。 这个大炮是用来抵挡入由查普尔布鲁克(Charles Brooke)领导的入侵团队。 原装的火炮被放置在班屯山的民政事务处办公室前。

登山时间,三小时
山脚下到山顶峰,七公里路程
最高海拔八百七十二米